Private lessons
$45/hour : in person (all paints, brushes and medium is free for you to use)
Materials / Resources for all classes
a note about solvents:
Solvents are harmful to you. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE THEM. FIGURE OUT ANOTHER WAY.
IF YOU CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT THAT WASHY LAYER AND DILUTING YOUR PAINT, USE WATERMIXABLE OILS for this layer, OR MIX THIS INTO YOUR OILS for that phase of your work and then use water to dilute:
https://www.dickblick.com/items/schminke-painting-medium-w-gel-35-ml-tube/
Online learning Resources:
I recommend taking Jen Gennari's basic drawing class.
1) Basic Drawing class
https://www.craftsy.com/class/traditional-portrait-drawing-techniques/
2) painting class
https://drawingamerica.com/ld-groups/jennifer-gennari-live/
Alex Tzavaras has some great lessons:
https://www.patreon.com/simplifydrawingandpainting
If you are just starting out, start with mass drawing on toned paper.
If you want to try painting, just get black and white. After that get yellow ochre and some red. After that, add other colors as you feel comfortable.
Other Helpful websites for oil painting:
http://www.artiscreation.com , https://paintingbestpractices.com, www.facebook.com/NaturalPigmentsllc, JustPaint.org
also check out the files section on Natural Pigments Facebook page and their videos
10 colors including black and white:
1) BLACK - Ivory /bone black
2) RED - brown/red such as "English Red", mars red (pr101) (Old Holland) or pr 102
3) RED - opaque orange/red such as Cad Red Light or orange molybdate
4) RED - cool red such as Quinacridone Red (pv19) or permanent madder deep (pr 264) by Rembrandt
5) BLUE - Cobalt Blue -quality matters here
6) GREEN - Viridian- quality matters here
7) GREEN - Emerald Green, or Veronese green by (Michael Harding, Williamsburg)
8) YELLOW - Yellow Ochre light (py43)
9) YELLOW - opaque light yellow. My favorite is genuine Naples yellow light by Vasari. I find cad yellow light too strong tinting, so perhaps a student grade like Winton or mix it with white and fillers to tone it down. (See below).*
10)WHITE - some toned down titanium white such as Flake White Replacement by Gamblin
or better for the life of your painting -lead white #1 by Rublev or any lead white in linseed oil
about white:
If you use pure titanium white, know that it is slow drying, very high tinting and cool and will make all of your colors chalky potentially. Mix it with lithopone (Rublev), and or barite and perhaps a little yellow ochre to dial down the coolness, whiteness and tinting strength.
Stay away from Zinc white (PW 4) even in small amounts. It will cause your paint to flake off. Make sure your titanium white does NOT contain zinc. https://justpaint.org/update-on-zinc/
Rublev Lead white is fast drying, pearlescent and not as white as titanium white. Most importantly, it gives your paint flexibility and durability. If you want your paintings to last the longest, this white is best. Don't eat it and if you have cuts on your hands wear gloves. If you use solvents, please don't. Gloves would be a must.
*notes about paint:
Paints that have very high tinting strengths are difficult to control. If you find that some of your paints have tinting strengths that are too powerful try mixing some Velazquez medium, and/or barite (Rublev) into them. I do this for cad red light, and emerald green. Alternatively, you could get student grade (Winton) for the cadmiums. The fillers are already added for you. The only paints that cost much money are lead white, cobalt blue and Viridian. All the rest, even in the best brands, are very inexpensive. (If I have cad yellow light I try to turn it into genuine Naples yellow light by adding lead white, a warm color, and some fillers).
In general it's best to stick to single permanent pigments in linseed oil b/c they make the strongest archival paintings. The best brands are Rublev Natural Pigments, Michael Harding, Williamsburg, Vasari, and Old Holland.
medium-linseed oil
Supports
Don't use stretched canvas if you can help it. Primed panels, primed Aluminum Composite Material, or canvas or linen mounted to ACM is best.
Also bring :brushes, palette knives, palette, easel (if class room does not provide) paper towels, container for medium (linseed oi)l, container for brush wash (linseed oil) and any initial sketching materials you want.
Portable Easel Suggestion:
panel holder or similar
palette box or similar
tripod or similar www.amazon.com/Dolica-AX620B100-62-Inch-Proline-Tripod/dp/B091FP9JRG/ref=psdc_499310_t1_B004XC3GZW?th=1
Solvents are harmful to you. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE THEM. FIGURE OUT ANOTHER WAY.
IF YOU CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT THAT WASHY LAYER AND DILUTING YOUR PAINT, USE WATERMIXABLE OILS for this layer, OR MIX THIS INTO YOUR OILS for that phase of your work and then use water to dilute:
https://www.dickblick.com/items/schminke-painting-medium-w-gel-35-ml-tube/
Online learning Resources:
I recommend taking Jen Gennari's basic drawing class.
1) Basic Drawing class
https://www.craftsy.com/class/traditional-portrait-drawing-techniques/
2) painting class
https://drawingamerica.com/ld-groups/jennifer-gennari-live/
Alex Tzavaras has some great lessons:
https://www.patreon.com/simplifydrawingandpainting
If you are just starting out, start with mass drawing on toned paper.
If you want to try painting, just get black and white. After that get yellow ochre and some red. After that, add other colors as you feel comfortable.
Other Helpful websites for oil painting:
http://www.artiscreation.com , https://paintingbestpractices.com, www.facebook.com/NaturalPigmentsllc, JustPaint.org
also check out the files section on Natural Pigments Facebook page and their videos
10 colors including black and white:
1) BLACK - Ivory /bone black
2) RED - brown/red such as "English Red", mars red (pr101) (Old Holland) or pr 102
3) RED - opaque orange/red such as Cad Red Light or orange molybdate
4) RED - cool red such as Quinacridone Red (pv19) or permanent madder deep (pr 264) by Rembrandt
5) BLUE - Cobalt Blue -quality matters here
6) GREEN - Viridian- quality matters here
7) GREEN - Emerald Green, or Veronese green by (Michael Harding, Williamsburg)
8) YELLOW - Yellow Ochre light (py43)
9) YELLOW - opaque light yellow. My favorite is genuine Naples yellow light by Vasari. I find cad yellow light too strong tinting, so perhaps a student grade like Winton or mix it with white and fillers to tone it down. (See below).*
10)WHITE - some toned down titanium white such as Flake White Replacement by Gamblin
or better for the life of your painting -lead white #1 by Rublev or any lead white in linseed oil
about white:
If you use pure titanium white, know that it is slow drying, very high tinting and cool and will make all of your colors chalky potentially. Mix it with lithopone (Rublev), and or barite and perhaps a little yellow ochre to dial down the coolness, whiteness and tinting strength.
Stay away from Zinc white (PW 4) even in small amounts. It will cause your paint to flake off. Make sure your titanium white does NOT contain zinc. https://justpaint.org/update-on-zinc/
Rublev Lead white is fast drying, pearlescent and not as white as titanium white. Most importantly, it gives your paint flexibility and durability. If you want your paintings to last the longest, this white is best. Don't eat it and if you have cuts on your hands wear gloves. If you use solvents, please don't. Gloves would be a must.
*notes about paint:
Paints that have very high tinting strengths are difficult to control. If you find that some of your paints have tinting strengths that are too powerful try mixing some Velazquez medium, and/or barite (Rublev) into them. I do this for cad red light, and emerald green. Alternatively, you could get student grade (Winton) for the cadmiums. The fillers are already added for you. The only paints that cost much money are lead white, cobalt blue and Viridian. All the rest, even in the best brands, are very inexpensive. (If I have cad yellow light I try to turn it into genuine Naples yellow light by adding lead white, a warm color, and some fillers).
In general it's best to stick to single permanent pigments in linseed oil b/c they make the strongest archival paintings. The best brands are Rublev Natural Pigments, Michael Harding, Williamsburg, Vasari, and Old Holland.
medium-linseed oil
Supports
Don't use stretched canvas if you can help it. Primed panels, primed Aluminum Composite Material, or canvas or linen mounted to ACM is best.
Also bring :brushes, palette knives, palette, easel (if class room does not provide) paper towels, container for medium (linseed oi)l, container for brush wash (linseed oil) and any initial sketching materials you want.
Portable Easel Suggestion:
panel holder or similar
palette box or similar
tripod or similar www.amazon.com/Dolica-AX620B100-62-Inch-Proline-Tripod/dp/B091FP9JRG/ref=psdc_499310_t1_B004XC3GZW?th=1